Tribe Talking: Native Peoples in Vietnam

Hillary Easom, The Travel Queen shares . . .

Having spent eight months in Asia this past year, I have learned the necessity of developing canned answers to common questions. “What was the food like?” “Did you ever get sick?” “Were you ever afraid?” “What was your favorite place?”

To the latter, while every country I visited had its own magic and splendor, I always answer, “Vietnam.” And to the inevitable follow-up (“Why?”) I explain this: Vietnam is a gorgeous country that offers beaches, mountains, the Mekong Delta, and a history and culture that drew me in from the very start.

Soon after arriving in Vietnam, I was amazed to learn that the country’s population is composed of 54 different ethnic groups. These are categorized by distinct language differences, derived from the areas of Asia from which the people originally came. Migration to Vietnam transpired over thousands of years, though some ethnic groups have lived here only a few centuries. Most movement occurred for political reasons or the need for more fertile farmland. Visiting villages and learning more about native cultures was a definite priority when planning my Vietnamese travels.

The first opportunity arises during a motorcycle tour through the central highlands. Unbeknownst to me when the trip begins, my driver speaks 7 tribal languages, facilitating communication with people in several villages along our non-touristy route. This makes our visits more social and less intrusive, and I like feeling welcome.

We spend a night in an Ede longhouse, made of bamboo and straw and raised on wooden stilts. Since my driver knows the village chief, we are invited to dinner at his house, where we share traditional rice wine and many toasts. (“Nhítlé,” his favorite, means “Bottoms up!” I have to fake it after the first couple or I’ll end up on the floor.)

In subsequent days, we visit Bahnar villages, each with a rong house in the center: a communal building for ceremonies and other public activities. One Mnong woman is so mesmerized by my foreignness that she presents me with a hand-beaded necklace for good luck. Perhaps most striking are the people in northwest Vietnam. Among these are the Flower and Black Hmong, so named because of their clothing styles. I am told that in Vietnamese “Hmong” means “bottom,” and I have to smile whenever I spot a “flower-bottomed” woman.

This region’s markets are remarkably colorful. Each weekend, villagers buy and sell vibrant clothing and musical instruments, and smoke tobacco out of bamboo water pipes. Unlike many ethnic markets I have visited around the world, tourists here are in the minority; these markets service the local community. Mothers nurse their babies, men imbibe rice wine, and children entertain themselves in their parents’ stalls. That which beguiles me is commonplace to them. Children smile for my camera then run away giggling, probably thinking I’m crazy for staring in awe at their shy beauty.

I’ve always found people to be the most intriguing facet of international travel; this is definitely true in Vietnam. Upon returning to Hanoi, I spend several hours in the Museum of Ethnology. Designed with assistance from Paris’s Musée de l’Homme, this museum has numerous displays of the country’s different ethnic groups. Visitors can discover more about tribal dress, farming methods, household tools, and social traditions.

Additionally, there are life-sized reproductions of the various architectural styles just behind the main building. While nothing compares to an actual visit, the museum houses excellent educational displays about Vietnam’s people, and all groups are represented. It would take several excursions to encounter people from all 54 groups. I’m already planning my next trip.

© 2004 Hillary Easom

Winter Vacation

Queen Me shares . . .

Okay, so I had promised before Christmas that I would write about my trip to Taos, NM. Oops! Not yet, huh?

Funny, I can write about so many topics. The words simply flow. But, this travel writing. Now, that's a totally different direction. So, I simply ignored my promise.

But, you see, I don't like to do that. I work really hard to keep my promises.

So . . . what follows is an attempt to share in my own little way just a taste of my trip. First of all my hubby and I like to snow ski. Throughout my life, I have visited many places, mostly in Colorado. In recent years and mostly for convenience, my family discovered New Mexico. We started with Angel Fire. The resort was fine and served our purposes (decent skiing and family related). But, with Angel Fire, we weren't completely satisfied. Before trying Taos, New Mexico, we spent one Christmas in Telluride. Now that, folks, is heaven. We will go back. The only problem with Telluride is getting there. We like to drive so that we can have our vehicle, Christmas presents, dog, gear (well, you get the picture)! I'm sure you saw right through that one . . . it's mostly about Santa's visit. After attempting the impossible (taking all that crap to Telluride), we decided until the kiddos (my daughter and cousins) are a little older, we'd stick closer to home. That's when we decided to give Taos a try. For us, the drive is only nine hours.

And, Taos Ski Village . . . we love you! My daughter, previously totally uninterested in learning to ski, is now a huge fan. The mountain offers an odd mix of easy and difficult runs. Quite possibly our favorite benefit is that many runs combine moguls with flat surfaces—meaning one side has moguls and the other is smooth. See, we can all be happy blazing down their trails.

Although the restaurant choices are still severely lacking, in my opinion, you can find some variety. And, within a short 40 minute or so drive, you can take your pick of restaurants in town. We tend to stay put in the Ski Village, though, which meant visiting the four restaurants we found more than once.

To date, we've stayed at the Snakedance Inn. It's a cozy little place (rooms are small), equipped with a wood-burning fireplace and small frig. It's "almost" ski in/ski out and offers a ski valet service. Last year, a staff member even helped you take off those pesky ski boots. This year, though, he had been promoted. There were days I most certainly missed that guy!

Worried about snow? Well, that's definitely a valid concern. New Mexico doesn't quite get the record snowfall that Colorado does. However, Taos (and Angel Fire) make their own snow. So, no worries there. Of course, I prefer the real deal, but truthfully, skiing on the fake stuff seems to be just as fun.

Another something I simply LOVE about Taos. No snowboarders! Hopefully, I didn't offend any Queens with that statement. :). If you do prefer snowboarding, than I suggest Angel Fire. But a word of caution . . . be sure and stay at a place with a fully stocked kitchen. Angel Fire is lacking in the restaurant department. Other New Mexico places that accept snowboarders are Santa Fe and Red River.

Oh, and before wrapping up this promise, I must mention 10,000 Wags. It's the best boarding house for dogs in town. All I can say is that I wish they were located in my hometown:).

Well, there you have it. Whew! What a relief.