Queens Travel

Make Russia Worth Your Rubles

2005-09-25T22:34:00.000-07:00

A country that is ever changing, Russia presents travelers with fascinating historical sites and cultural attractions. Unfortunately, it also presents some quirky rules and regulations that, if not followed to an exact crossed t and dotted i, can make pre-trip planning an absolute nightmare. Hopefully what I learned from my mistakes will help you land in Russia much more smoothly.
After embarking on a 7-month zigzag journey through Asia, my husband and I decided we would complete our self-guided tour with a ride on the Trans-Mongolian railway, ending in Moscow and from there returning home to the States. Without further ado, I booked the cheapest online tickets I could find from Moscow to New York City, and we put the rest of our planning on the back burner.

Fast-forward four months. We were now in Hanoi, Vietnam, and figured we should apply for our Russian visas. Easier said than done. As the woman at the embassy informed us, a Russian tourist visa requires not only an application and hefty fee, but also a detailed itinerary with an invitation from a host (often a tour company), along with vouchers from both the transportation company (railway or airline) and the hotels where reservations must have already been made – for every night spent in the country. Oh, and these vouchers cannot be e-mailed or faxed but must be original documents.

“Just pay them to send the vouchers through DHL,” she told us, not recognizing that this wasn’t so easy for travelers on the road. Typical of most backpackers, we weren’t sure where we would be sleeping the next night, much less the 14 nights we’d spend in Russia three months later.

Next step: the Internet café. After hours of surfing, we concluded that trying to purchase a Russian train ticket on our own was painfully difficult and that if we were going to use an agent to procure our seats, we might as well use the same agent to book our lodging. We would spend more money in the long run, but the saved hours of anxiety would be well worth the extra dollars.

Finding an agent with reasonable package rates proved more difficult than anticipated, and negotiating a package even remotely close to our budget range involved several teeth-clenching e-mail exchanges and phone calls to Moscow. Eventually, we agreed to a proposal and wire-transferred the money to the Russian agency. With a sigh of relief, I figured the greatest hurdle had been cleared. Little did I know what would transpire over the next 6 weeks.

An e-mail came while we were in China, and our Russian travel agent assured us that the attached PDF files would be sufficient vouchers and invitation to present with our visa applications. Color printouts and painstakingly completed application forms in hand, we headed to the Russian embassy in Beijing, feeling eager and enthusiastic. Upon arrival, we discovered a notice on the door informing us that, as of April 12, 2004, the Russian embassy in Beijing no longer processes tourist visa applications for non-residents of China.

Flabbergasted, my husband approached the desk. “We’re American citizens, and the embassy in Vietnam told us we could apply for our visas here.”

“Only Chinese residents,” came the curt reply.

Frustrated, we attempted to glean a bit more information. “Can we get the visas in Ulaan Baatar (Mongolia)?”

“No.” That was that.

“Ma’am,” my husband pleaded, “we have a bit of a problem here. We leave for Mongolia next week, and from there we take a train to Russia. Where can we get our visas?”

“In your home country.” Her eyes remained glued to the paperwork in front of her, silently communicating that she was through talking to us. How could we explain that in order to get to our country we needed to get to Moscow first? Exasperated, we left the embassy and returned to our seemingly second home, the Internet café.

“Dear Mila. . .” began the umpteenth e-mail to our Muscovian travel agent.

The next day we received a reply that renewed our hope. Another American couple, currently in Ulaan Baatar, had experienced the same problems in Beijing, but we were all promised that a partner agency in Mongolia would assist us with the visas. No need to worry.

Once we arrived in Mongolia, our first task was visiting the partner travel agency for visa assistance. We learned that the type of voucher Mila had sent us from Moscow was not acceptable at Ulaan Baatar’s Russian embassy. The other American couple had had a horrendous time obtaining their visas, and only after many hassles and $700 were they finally on their way to Russia. I reminded myself to take deep breaths.

Told that we were welcome to try on our own, and determined to triumph over these obstacles, we went straight to the embassy. Upon arrival, we were informed that visa applications for foreigners were accepted only between 1:00 and 2:00 PM. We returned a few hours later.

When traveling, you meet friends in the darnedest ways. Over the next three days, we developed a whole new contingent of companions as all of us commiserated together in line at the embassy. Typically, the application probers don’t truly open the door until at least 1:07, stealing away 7 minutes of precious time from those of us who’d blocked out the middle of our day to beg their mercy. Usually other employees also distract them with unrelated concerns, and applicants stand in feigned patience, watching the clock tick away more of that sacred hour.

The first day, we were called in just before 2:00.

“What is this? You are American citizens? I’m sorry; this is the wrong application. You will have to come back tomorrow. Next!” The receptionist had failed to ask our citizenship when she handed us the applications. Who knew Americans needed a different form?

At this point, we decided not even to deal with the aggravation of obtaining correct vouchers. Our initial impressions of Russia had gone quickly downhill, based on the treatment we received from these government officials, and we decided to spend our extra time enjoying more of Mongolia instead. Now we just needed a transit visa, which would allow us up to 48 hours in Moscow before our flight left for New York. We’d heard these were much easier to obtain than long-term tourist visas.

Day Two proceeded in much the same way. We greeted our new friends outside the gate 30 minutes early to ensure we were near the front of the line. Here we waited to be buzzed in to the building around 1:00. This time only 6 applicants made it through the line within the hour’s time, and we were among the lucky ones.

A couple ahead of us came out with triumphant looks on their faces, and we silently cheered for them – no noise, though, for fear of upsetting the man behind the desk. Sobriety and extreme politeness are keys to success at this game. (I have an odd feeling a $50 bill might work as well.) Unfortunately, the rest of us were unsuccessful this time around. In our case, we needed a more “official” receipt of reservation for the plane that would take us out of Moscow.

“Don’t worry,” I thought to myself. “I’ll be out of there with no hesitation if this is what that place is like!”

The old adage says, “Three strikes, you’re out!” Fortunately, we didn’t have to suffer this shame on our third day, as we managed to plead enough that the stone-faced militant behind the desk gave in and sent us to the cashier to pay the visa fee.

We lost a lot of money when we cancelled our train and hotel reservations with the travel agency in Moscow, but more disappointingly, we lost a lot of faith in Russian tourism. Never in our travels had we felt so unwelcome and unwanted by a country than we did during our experiences with the Russian government. Thankfully, though, we obtained the visas and did indeed fly to Russia as planned.

Moscow is a beautiful city that deserves far more than the 40 hours we were able to spend. And, despite all of my headaches in trying to get there, I know I will return again to spend more time in this fascinating country. With my newfound understanding of the system, next time I will undoubtedly use a respectable agent and plan my Russian travels from home, far in advance.

Evidently, the process is much simpler when undergone in your own country. For travelers who have no choice but to obtain their visas while away from home, my best recommendation is to start early, allowing time to fix any problems that may arise. Choose a respectable agent who can provide you with the correct documents the first time around – it’s worth the extra money you might spend. Most of all, focus on the details. Cross those t’s and dot those i's. Once you arrive, Russia is definitely worth your rubles. It just may take a little extra patience to get there.

Go Now and Pack Light

2005-07-27T12:09:00.000-07:00

The Travel Queen, Hillary Easom shares ...

Susan Cegavske spent 20 years working in a high-paced corporate environment before stuffing her backpack and leaving everything else behind for a life on the road. After a health scare and reevaluating what was most important in life, Susan quit her job, sold her house in Marin County, bought a plane ticket, and has never looked back. Here is her story.

What made you decide to give up all that was familiar and head out into the unknown?

The whole thing started with a personal growth workshop I took. I was investigating the question, Is there more to life? The guy led us to visualization about our funerals: Who’s at your funeral? What are they saying? Do you have any regrets? Something I recognized was that I hadn’t roamed the planet enough. I thought, Wow, how could I create that? From there, I figured out how I could do it financially and really put some energy into visualizing that dream.

Then the whole health thing happened. I had an abnormal mammogram, and it scared me. Suddenly this dream had a timeline. If I didn’t change my lifestyle, I would get really sick. I knew I had two choices: get out or get sick. Around that mammogram time, I realized, “You need to do this. Now.”

Where did you begin your travels? What were your initial thoughts?

The day that my house sold, I was inconsolable. A friend told me to close my eyes and visualize myself sitting on a porch at 80 years old with a group of children all around me. “What are you telling them about your life?” she asked. “Did you follow your dream? Or did you hold on to your house and belongings because you were afraid?” That did it for me.

"Traveling solo, I’ve felt afraid sometimes—in the words of Blanche from A Streetcar Named Desire, 'relying on the kindness of strangers.'"

My first destination was Fiji. I think a unique aspect to my travels is that I gave myself permission to be gone 3 days, 3 weeks, 3 months, or 3 years. There was no timeline. If you can be somewhere, and you never have to look at your watch and you never have to be somewhere else, there is so much more freedom. Psychologically, it’s amazingly different. For me a year goes by like this: (snap).

My biggest regret is that I bought a round-the-world ticket, and for the first leg I scheduled only 2 weeks in Fiji. At the end of the 2 weeks I didn’t want to leave, and I had this stupid ticket. I learned my first lesson: not to move on until you’re 100% ready to leave. Here I was in this little village, soaking up the culture, and I had to go. That’s turned out to be one of my passions about traveling: diving into other cultures.

After 17 months, you came back to the States for a brief sojourn. Did you experience culture shock?

I thought, where is everybody? People were hidden away in their cars, in their houses. This was so different from life in the village or on the square.

I was really struck by the huge amount of excess that we live with. I don’t know if it was culture shock, but it was really an awareness of the “richness” of the U.S.

You left again to continue your journey. What persuaded you to venture on?

It’s a big world, and the more I got into traveling, the more I wanted to go. I wanted to explore different regions. I just feel like I have this big list that keeps getting longer of things I’d like to do. That’s my passion—and my job, so to speak—to work on getting that list completed.
How many countries have you visited during these past couple of years? Of these, which stand out most vividly in your mind?

I’ve been to 29 countries, I think, in my entire life. I’ve only visited 18 in the past 28 months. I like to travel at a slower pace.

Of course, I love all of the countries for different reasons. Mongolia was a real highlight for me, I think because the real culture is so accessible. The tourist track was pretty thin there. I find that the more adventuresome I am, the more I like it. The more connected I am with nature, and the closer I am to the culture, I find I’m the happiest. I loved trekking in Nepal. I loved Tibet. Driving Western Australia, driving from Darwin to Perth, was exquisite.

Where have you spent the longest period of time? What kept you there?

I think it was the 4 months I spent in Mongolia. Again, the culture was so fascinating.
Do you ever grow lonesome traveling solo?

I would say it’s more a feeling of isolation. I think that’s part of what has allowed a personal breakthrough. What do you do when you feel lonely and isolated? You have to put on your tennis shoes, lace them up, and get out to meet the world. In just one interaction with another person, you realize why you are there in the first place. There’s something that shifts you a little bit. My biggest passion is having experiences that shift the way I see myself on this planet. Doing that over and over again has been such a confidence builder and such a joy. It’s allowed me to build an extraordinary relationship with myself.

I’ve met up with other travelers, but I feel that the time spent alone is the richest time. I’ve loved finding out exactly where my edges are. What is my pace? What do I want to do today? It’s travel without compromise. There’s always some negotiation when traveling with someone else.

Truly, you’re never really alone. If you want to do something, you’ll create a way for yourself. It just looks a little different.

What inspires you to keep traveling?

I think just the constant evolution it provides. It forces me to be very present at all times, getting to recreate my life every day. Learning about the world in which I live firsthand, versus through the media or some other source of information.

I feel a lot more compassionate for people I meet in the United States who are new immigrants, who might have a language issue. I have more empathy for them. I also really appreciate the melting pot of the U.S. It’s the country’s biggest strength.

Will you ever come “home” again?

Home is where I’m at. Someday I’d like to put down roots, though I have no idea where that would be. I’d like to set it up where I could live in a couple different places in the world. Home is really wherever I am at the moment.

What are some of the greatest lessons you’ve learned?

The journey offers so much more than what you see. It becomes an inner journey as well. I feel like I have friends all over the world, which is wonderful. There’s so much more to travel than the sites you see. I think the real benefit of my journey has been the total upward shift in my confidence and self-esteem, and my willingness to walk through fear. Traveling solo, I’ve felt afraid sometimes—in the words of Blanche from A Streetcar Named Desire, “relying on the kindness of strangers.” I’ve learned that fear is all in my own mind.

At the same time, to think that there will never be fear, that you won’t have a lot of emotions, is incorrect. You will be afraid. You will be anxious. It’s part of life.

What advice would you give to someone toying with the idea of becoming a nomad?
Go! Just do it. Go now, and pack light.

Hillary Easom is a freelance travel writer and photographer based in Richmond, Virginia. Since returning to the States after 13 months on the road, she has been living vicariously through nomadic friends.

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Kayaking the Mergui Archipelago

2005-05-19T08:43:00.000-07:00

Hillary Easom, the Travel Queen, shares . . .

In March 2004, my husband Eric and I joined a kayak safari in southern Myanmar (formerly known as Burma).

Here are my impressions from the experience:

To begin the trip, we were picked up at our villa in Bang Niang, Thailand, from where we drove about four hours north to Ranong, Thailand. In Ranong we hopped on a longboat ferry that took us across the waters to Kawthaung, Myanmar, where we met our fearless French guide, Cedric. Another three-hour ride on a former naval commando boat (in an unlikely torrential downpour), and we arrived at our island.

Picture Tom Hanks's character in Castaway. Add to the image a gourmet cook, two porters to set up and take care of a luxury tent village, a boat driver, and two personal guides, and you can envision this trip. Another paradise here on earth. Our tent had two thick mattresses with soft pillows, crisp sheets, and a vestibule large enough for all of our gear and then some. One of the two screen doors allowed us to look right out onto the beach when we awoke every morning. This was where we did a couple of our own yoga sessions, several swims, and some sunset strolls. Aside from the staff and our four fellow travelers, there was literally no one around for miles, save the many fishing boats searching for squid in the night.

Every day we paddled, snorkeled, and/or hiked through rugged terrain, exploring new areas of this virgin sea. The snorkeling was outstanding. We struggled to remember all the species seen underwater as we perused the reef fish book each night. Eric's favorite were the clownfish— Nemo's cousins! We paddled into caves, through nooks and crannies, and in calm and not-so-calm seas, by the light of the sun and the light of the stars, returning home each evening to a huge Thai meal.

One morning we hiked a trail that required us to trudge then even swim through a low river, as the tide was so high! We paddled through mangrove forests to get here. We're talking real adventure here, campers. Crocodile Dundee, watch out!

This story cannot end without mentioning our favorite new friends, the macaque family who lived near our tent village. These primates came to visit every morning at breakfast time and every afternoon just in time for lunch. While we only fed them a few bananas and some tropical fruits, they hung out for an hour at a time, entertaining us to no end. After the first two meals, we recognized each one and began to notice different aspects of each one's personality. I, not surprisingly, wanted to pick them up but knew this would not be a good idea—wild animals should stay wild unless someone is going to stay with them for good. (It was hard, though, with the babies!)

SEAL also runs live-a-board diving trips to this area, and we would highly recommend them. The service, food, equipment, and itinerary were 5-star, and we paid only $800 per person for the 7-day trip. Their website is www.seal-asia.com.

© Hillary Easom 2004
(from www.hillanderic.com)

Hitting the Horse Races in Hong Kong

2005-03-15T09:46:00.000-08:00

Queen Hillary shares . . .

When I married a Kentuckian, I should have known that horseracing would inevitably hook me. I’ve always loved watching the Kentucky Derby on television – the most famous 2 minutes in sports – and I devoured the book Seabiscuit, but I never experienced a live horse race at the track until visiting Hong Kong last June. Though I’m not a huge gambler, there is still plenty of entertainment to be had. The graceful beauty of the animals and the pure adrenaline rush I experienced as 10 1,000-pound animals sprinted by sucked me in almost instantaneously.

It was Wednesday evening, the once-weekly race night at Happy Valley Turf Track. Situated in a high-class neighborhood on Hong Kong Island, with a stunning skyline backdrop, this racetrack draws yuppie ex-pats, local fans, and long-time professional horse betters, along with travelers like me, all there to celebrate the glory of the race. When I walked in I didn’t even know what a quinella was; within the hour I had not only deciphered the lingo but also learned that Douglas Whyte was the favored jockey and John Size the most successful trainer for the season.

Race 4 ended, and we had a 15-minute break before the starting gun would sound again. It was time to place a bet. Though tempted to choose based solely on the creativity of the horse’s name (my favorite was “Joyful Master”), I had promised my husband I would make an educated bet, which meant I had to study the program. There were 12 horses in the race, and I figured out enough of the jumble of statistics to choose 2 whom I thought could place first and second. I bet 10 Hong Kong dollars (about $1.50 U.S.) in a quinella on Arabian Wager and Good Win. (I couldn’t pass up “Good Win,” though I can say in my own defense that his statistics were as appealing as his name.)

The race began. I didn’t realize that I was bouncing up and down until my husband poked me and laughed. This was exciting! Good Win was running strong, with Arabian Wager in good position, and I couldn’t tear my eyes from the big screen at track center. The cadence of 40 hooves mingled in with the roars of the crowd created a delightful music thick with rhythmic percussion.

“Come on!” I screamed, as my horses began to lag behind. My heart was pounding, probably as hard as the horses’. Two hundred meters to go!

As the crowd gaped, the horses galloped past, and we all waited for the photo finish. This was a close race. When the official results were posted, I felt only a moment of disappointment. My picks hadn’t pulled through. But the horses’ majesty, their wild manes flying through the air, the jockeys’ stealth, and the thrill of the race itself were worth every penny.

© 2005 Hillary Easom

Travel Tips on the Cheap

2005-02-28T12:08:00.000-08:00

Hillary Easom, Travel Queen, shares ...

Just two things limit most of us who love to travel: time and money. I could go on for hours about how to find the time-and so I'll save that for another day.

As far as stretching your dollars to make wonderful trips more accessible, here's a slew of tips:

1) Plan the trip yourself. While package tours are simple and seem reasonably priced, you can generally follow the same itinerary at a lower cost if you're willing to take the time to plan it on your own. That said, tour brochures are an starting point for travel planning, as their itineraries usually hit the hottest sites. It's worthwhile to go a step further and find some more off-the-beaten-path attractions that may be less crowded and equally interesting.

2) Book your travel on the Internet. I've gotten excellent airfares and some cheap rental cars through web booking. Before making a final decision, be sure to shop around at a number of sites and compare prices. Some of my favorites include sidestep.com, orbitz.com, and hotwire.com. Also check independent airlines not included on these sites, such as Southwest Airlines (iflyswa.com), Jet Blue, and USA3000. They often offer Internet-only specials, and if you take the time to look you can find some hot deals.

3) Use budget travel guidebooks. Despite the connotation "budget travel" may have (ie, backpacks and youth hostels), these books list accommodations for all ages and tastes. They also offer money-saving tips for activities at your destination, such as free days to visit museums and discount tour guides. I've been happiest with Lonely Planet, Footprints, and Moon Handbooks.

4) Research your destination on the web and at the library. Before my husband Eric and I traveled around the world, we had a stack of guidebooks three feet high that we'd borrowed from the local library. This saved us spending the money on books for each country we'd visit, as we could copy the most relevant information into a notebook to carry along with us. The library is very good about keeping the newest guidebooks on the shelves.

5) Find lodging that permits you to cook your own meals. Eric and I stayed at an "auberge" in Argentina that had a wonderful, large kitchen for guests to use. By shopping at the local market and making our own meals, we saved a lot of money and also were able to make some exotic and romantic dinners.

6) Consider a bed and breakfast instead of a hotel. Not only are B&Bs more quaint and charming than most hotels; they also include breakfast in their price, and the food is usually fantastic. Prices are often lower and accommodations more comfortable.

7) Take the scenic route. If your journey brings you to more than one city, avoid flying and instead take a train or bus. You'll often see beautiful areas otherwise inaccessible, and the ride can be a cultural experience in and of itself.

8) Finally, read the fine print. Sometimes advertised specials are not as good as they sound. Does the week-long stay in the Bahamas require you to spend four hours attending a timeshare presentation? Will the beachfront hotel in Cancun be located beside the most raucous bar in town? Maybe you're willing to make these small sacrifices to travel on the cheap. Just make sure you commit to that before you get there!

© Hillary Easom 2005

Tribe Talking: Native Peoples in Vietnam

2005-01-25T20:14:00.000-08:00

Hillary Easom, The Travel Queen shares . . .

Having spent eight months in Asia this past year, I have learned the necessity of developing canned answers to common questions. “What was the food like?” “Did you ever get sick?” “Were you ever afraid?” “What was your favorite place?”

To the latter, while every country I visited had its own magic and splendor, I always answer, “Vietnam.” And to the inevitable follow-up (“Why?”) I explain this: Vietnam is a gorgeous country that offers beaches, mountains, the Mekong Delta, and a history and culture that drew me in from the very start.

Soon after arriving in Vietnam, I was amazed to learn that the country’s population is composed of 54 different ethnic groups. These are categorized by distinct language differences, derived from the areas of Asia from which the people originally came. Migration to Vietnam transpired over thousands of years, though some ethnic groups have lived here only a few centuries. Most movement occurred for political reasons or the need for more fertile farmland. Visiting villages and learning more about native cultures was a definite priority when planning my Vietnamese travels.

The first opportunity arises during a motorcycle tour through the central highlands. Unbeknownst to me when the trip begins, my driver speaks 7 tribal languages, facilitating communication with people in several villages along our non-touristy route. This makes our visits more social and less intrusive, and I like feeling welcome.

We spend a night in an Ede longhouse, made of bamboo and straw and raised on wooden stilts. Since my driver knows the village chief, we are invited to dinner at his house, where we share traditional rice wine and many toasts. (“Nhítlé,” his favorite, means “Bottoms up!” I have to fake it after the first couple or I’ll end up on the floor.)

In subsequent days, we visit Bahnar villages, each with a rong house in the center: a communal building for ceremonies and other public activities. One Mnong woman is so mesmerized by my foreignness that she presents me with a hand-beaded necklace for good luck. Perhaps most striking are the people in northwest Vietnam. Among these are the Flower and Black Hmong, so named because of their clothing styles. I am told that in Vietnamese “Hmong” means “bottom,” and I have to smile whenever I spot a “flower-bottomed” woman.

This region’s markets are remarkably colorful. Each weekend, villagers buy and sell vibrant clothing and musical instruments, and smoke tobacco out of bamboo water pipes. Unlike many ethnic markets I have visited around the world, tourists here are in the minority; these markets service the local community. Mothers nurse their babies, men imbibe rice wine, and children entertain themselves in their parents’ stalls. That which beguiles me is commonplace to them. Children smile for my camera then run away giggling, probably thinking I’m crazy for staring in awe at their shy beauty.

I’ve always found people to be the most intriguing facet of international travel; this is definitely true in Vietnam. Upon returning to Hanoi, I spend several hours in the Museum of Ethnology. Designed with assistance from Paris’s Musée de l’Homme, this museum has numerous displays of the country’s different ethnic groups. Visitors can discover more about tribal dress, farming methods, household tools, and social traditions.

Additionally, there are life-sized reproductions of the various architectural styles just behind the main building. While nothing compares to an actual visit, the museum houses excellent educational displays about Vietnam’s people, and all groups are represented. It would take several excursions to encounter people from all 54 groups. I’m already planning my next trip.

© 2004 Hillary Easom

Winter Vacation

2005-01-16T09:06:00.000-08:00

Queen Me shares . . .

Okay, so I had promised before Christmas that I would write about my trip to Taos, NM. Oops! Not yet, huh?

Funny, I can write about so many topics. The words simply flow. But, this travel writing. Now, that's a totally different direction. So, I simply ignored my promise.

But, you see, I don't like to do that. I work really hard to keep my promises.

So . . . what follows is an attempt to share in my own little way just a taste of my trip. First of all my hubby and I like to snow ski. Throughout my life, I have visited many places, mostly in Colorado. In recent years and mostly for convenience, my family discovered New Mexico. We started with Angel Fire. The resort was fine and served our purposes (decent skiing and family related). But, with Angel Fire, we weren't completely satisfied. Before trying Taos, New Mexico, we spent one Christmas in Telluride. Now that, folks, is heaven. We will go back. The only problem with Telluride is getting there. We like to drive so that we can have our vehicle, Christmas presents, dog, gear (well, you get the picture)! I'm sure you saw right through that one . . . it's mostly about Santa's visit. After attempting the impossible (taking all that crap to Telluride), we decided until the kiddos (my daughter and cousins) are a little older, we'd stick closer to home. That's when we decided to give Taos a try. For us, the drive is only nine hours.

And, Taos Ski Village . . . we love you! My daughter, previously totally uninterested in learning to ski, is now a huge fan. The mountain offers an odd mix of easy and difficult runs. Quite possibly our favorite benefit is that many runs combine moguls with flat surfaces—meaning one side has moguls and the other is smooth. See, we can all be happy blazing down their trails.

Although the restaurant choices are still severely lacking, in my opinion, you can find some variety. And, within a short 40 minute or so drive, you can take your pick of restaurants in town. We tend to stay put in the Ski Village, though, which meant visiting the four restaurants we found more than once.

To date, we've stayed at the Snakedance Inn. It's a cozy little place (rooms are small), equipped with a wood-burning fireplace and small frig. It's "almost" ski in/ski out and offers a ski valet service. Last year, a staff member even helped you take off those pesky ski boots. This year, though, he had been promoted. There were days I most certainly missed that guy!

Worried about snow? Well, that's definitely a valid concern. New Mexico doesn't quite get the record snowfall that Colorado does. However, Taos (and Angel Fire) make their own snow. So, no worries there. Of course, I prefer the real deal, but truthfully, skiing on the fake stuff seems to be just as fun.

Another something I simply LOVE about Taos. No snowboarders! Hopefully, I didn't offend any Queens with that statement. :). If you do prefer snowboarding, than I suggest Angel Fire. But a word of caution . . . be sure and stay at a place with a fully stocked kitchen. Angel Fire is lacking in the restaurant department. Other New Mexico places that accept snowboarders are Santa Fe and Red River.

Oh, and before wrapping up this promise, I must mention 10,000 Wags. It's the best boarding house for dogs in town. All I can say is that I wish they were located in my hometown:).

Well, there you have it. Whew! What a relief.

Merry Christmas To All!

2004-12-05T14:39:00.000-08:00

Travel Queen shares . . .

Raised in a family that celebrates Christmas to the fullest, to me the holidays have always meant time spent with relatives, baking cookies, building snowmen, and searching for perfect gifts. The season was unusual, then, the year I celebrated Christmas in Europe - without any family.

Back in 1993, I spent part of my senior year of college studying in France. When the semester ended, my friend Annmarie and I traveled around the continent for a couple of weeks, giving ourselves just a taste of what each country had to offer. We visited Anne Frank's home in Amsterdam, nibbled on chocolates in Belgium, and listened to music on the Charles Bridge in Prague before heading to Austria, where we were to spend Christmas with our friends Sam and David.

As a special gift, all of our parents had paid for us to spend Christmas Eve at a nice hotel in Vienna and to have Christmas dinner in its dining room, helping to alleviate any homesickness we were sure to feel.We met at the hotel, thrilled to enjoy a bit of luxury after weeks of sleeping in hostel bunk beds. A Christmas Eve arrival left us time to enjoy a traditional Austrian Christmas market, where we sipped on "gluhwein" and munched on gingerbread. That evening, Sam and David presented us with a memorable Christmas gift - the recitation of a hilarious holiday poem they'd written especially for us. We all settled in for a long winter's nap.

When we awoke on Christmas morning, we went to a special mass where the Vienna Boys' Choir was performing. We'd written months ahead of time for tickets, and the glorious rendition of "Stille Nacht" alone made it worth our effort. Unfortunately, back at the hotel we learned that Christmas dinner had been cancelled, as every other guest was joining friends or family for the holiday. Our hearts sunk, as we found ourselves alone, non-German-speaking, and hungry on Christmas day in Vienna, where virtually every establishment in town was closed for the holiday.

Where was Santa's magic when we really needed it?

After traipsing through the streets of Vienna for nearly an hour, we found a tavern that was open for business. There was no turkey on the menu, but we were so relieved just to find somewhere to eat that Vienna sausage hit the spot, even for Christmas dinner. The man behind the bar let us use the telephone to call home and talk with our families, and we each managed to shed only a few tears as we relayed our holiday saga.

That night, we headed to the Vienna Opera House and obtained Standing Room Only tickets for "The Marriage of Figaro." Warmed by each other's company, we laughed about how that Christmas started beautifully, took a turn for the worse, but ended up being a memorable holiday and the most unique we'd probably ever spend.

Happy holidays to all, and may they be filled with many wonderful memories!

Submitted by Hillary Easom (a.k.a. Travel Queen)
www.queenpower.com/queens.html

Picking a Hot Spot for the Winter!

2004-10-26T11:27:00.000-07:00

Travel Queen shares . . .

When winter approaches, some people start to feel a little melancholy, mourning the falling of the leaves and the chill in the air. I always welcome this time of the year with open arms, knowing that it brings not only the holidays but also the perfect opportunity to take a vacation. Normally, I pick some time in the dead of winter to travel someplace tropical-visiting my best friend in Honolulu, spending a weekend with my parents in Florida, SCUBA diving in Latin America.

Wherever I choose to travel, sunshine is generally the key component. Every soul appreciates warmth in December. Last year, however, I spent the beginning of winter in the most unlikely of places for a sun-lover: Antarctica.

Now you may wonder why anyone trying to escape winter's cold would choose a destination known for its icy climate and whitewashed landscape. To tell the truth, part of me had decided not to escape after all, but to embrace the beauty of winter. Perhaps I was longing to be an Ice Queen for a short time. (The other part of me knew it was summer in Antarctica, and even though that still meant cold, it was a heck of a lot warmer than it would have been any other time of the year!)

My husband and I booked a cruise aboard Norway's Nordnorge, a ship that spends most of its time sailing Scandinavian fjords, then heads south (way south!) for our winter. The ship embarked from Ushuaia, the town Argentina boasts is at "the end of the world." After a rough crossing over the Drake Passage, we arrived in the waters of Antarctica. Glaciers abounded, and we passengers bundled up to brave the outdoors. The landscape was stunning.

Many friends have asked, "What do you do in Antarctica?" Most of our nine days were spent aboard the ship, where we attended lectures on all aspects of the seventh continent: history, geography, geology, exploration, bird life (including those beloved penguins) and other wildlife. We were able to walk on Antarctic land on six different occasions, during which we spent time ogling thousands of penguins (who are perhaps the most entertaining creatures on earth), sea lions, and cormorants. The first landing included a visit to a Polish scientific research station, where we were greeted warmly with cookies and tea. During one landing, about twenty of us braved the bitter seas and took a dip-yes, that icicle in the blue bathing suit was me! (We'd been promised a natural hot bath afterward, along with a warm, dry towel, a certificate, and a shot of some potent Norwegian liqueur that made my eyes pop out.)At the end of the cruise, I was reluctant to disembark, my intrigue just having been piqued.

Would I do it again? You bet! And I might even give up that week in the sun for it.

Submitted by Hillary Easom, The Travel Queen!